suckerPUNCH: Describe your project.
MAGLAB (aref MAKSOUD): Haute Contour . . . Hot Contour . . . When Haute Couture meets parametric design . . . When couture meets contour . . . Where parametric design meets fashion.
Haute Contour is one of MAGLAB’s research works toward new cybernetic, biodigital design.
Haute contour fashion draws upon a new spatial morphology, moving in a strongly 3-dimensional domain, built as a liquid fluid sculpture of one famous sculptor, or the parametric architecture (or design) of Zaha Hadid, which repudiates all traditional geometric figures. I didn’t think in designing just dress or shawl but I thought also to design a unique space, beautiful form. This idea is then the generator for the design process.
The result is an output that uses the computation process to be the means of form finding through a set of parameters inputted through our research.
Our bodies are always the structure on which garments are draped, but here the garment is not just resting on us, the structural aspect achieved by distributing the weight of the dress between the shoulders and the breast.
In this research I attempt to investigate possibilities and potentialities of advanced digital design techniques in the realm of fashion design.
I worked on the relation between body and three-dimensional artifact, between complexity and recognition, deepening the potentialities of digital Tools, 3d drawing and Morphodynamic techniques.
Using the parametric modeling and laser cutting to create “fluidity Skin“ dress.
The project is an exploration and research of the bridge between fashion and architecture, though the body fluidity contouring involved in the research seems to owe more to geographical techniques and the individuality of human topography.
Firstly, we modeled the body and studied our scripting to pour a fluidity fractals over the body with deferent density and parameters according to the places on the body which we want to cover, after we used a projector light to trace the real model body’s landscape, defining the line and form of different persons and positions according to its own distinctive pattern, as projected in different topography and positions.
Through this process, the achieved skin allows to take control in creating the bespoke contour pattern, through articulation and expression of their desired body movements.
Then, through the use of Parametric modeling, our experimental fluidity script was done and a topography displacement form was read, contour lines created over the selected dress ”fluidity form” and created the new skin then laser cut to form the ‘skin’ or the dress.
The fluidity skin at each frame was recorded over the body; the skin was generated as a representation of it through contours and translating it from organic curvature form to geometrical contoured one.
As body movement is articulated through space and time, the body becomes a landscape in which each contour defines the extension of our physicality; the skin became the final dress and ready-to-wear.
sP: What or who influenced this project?
MAGLAB: Iris van Herpen, Daniel Widrig, fluid systems, Patrik Schumacher, NOX, Frei Otto.
sP: What were you reading/listening to/watching while developing this project?
MAGLAB: Reading Alexander McQueen, Digital Architecture Now, Contemporary Digital Architecture Design and Techniques. Listening to Danny Elfman.
sP: Whose work is currently on your radar?
MAGLAB: Zaha Hadid, AA school of architecture, Alisa Andrasek, Massimiliano Fuksas, Marc Fornes & THEVERYMANY.
Additional credits and links:
Designer: Aref Maksoud
Makeup Art By: MAGLAB Makeup Artist Sarab Rikabi.
Photography & Graphic Design: Ahmad Kattan.
Fashion model: Mira